How to Install Your Vanity
A handy homeowner with basic tools can install a Modern Vanity in 2–3 hours. Here's the complete step-by-step process.
Important: Countertop & Backsplash Are NOT Pre-Attached
The countertop and backsplash ship loose (not glued to the cabinet). You must secure them during installation using clear 100% silicone adhesive. This is by design — it allows safe shipping and lets you align everything perfectly during install.
Before You Start
Tools You'll Need
- Level (24" or longer)
- Drill / driver with bits
- Stud finder
- Adjustable wrench
- Plumber's wrench or channel-lock pliers
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Utility knife
- Clear 100% silicone adhesive (mould-resistant)
- Plumber's putty or silicone for drain seal
- Shims (cedar or plastic)
- Caulk gun
- Bucket and towels (for plumbing work)
Plumbing Parts to Purchase
- FaucetSingle-hole deck-mount — see our compatibility guide
- Pop-up drain assembly1-1/4" with overflow
- P-trap1-1/4" — connects drain to wall stub-out
- Supply lines3/8" braided stainless (often included with faucet)
- Shut-off valvesOnly if existing valves are old/incompatible
- Teflon tapeFor threaded connections
Step-by-Step Installation
Remove the Old Vanity
- Turn off the water supply (both hot and cold shut-off valves under the existing vanity).
- Disconnect supply lines and the P-trap. Place a bucket underneath to catch residual water.
- Remove any screws attaching the old vanity to the wall.
- Cut any caulk seal between the old vanity and the wall with a utility knife.
- Patch any drywall damage. Let it dry before proceeding.
Position & Level the Cabinet
- Slide the cabinet (without the countertop) into position against the wall.
- Use a level across the top of the cabinet in both directions (side-to-side and front-to-back).
- Place shims under the cabinet to level it. Bathroom floors are rarely perfectly level.
- Check that the cabinet is plumb (vertical) against the wall.
Secure Cabinet to Wall
- Use a stud finder to locate wall studs behind the vanity.
- Pre-drill pilot holes through the cabinet's back rail (the reinforced strip at the top back of the cabinet).
- Drive 2-1/2" or 3" wood screws through the cabinet into the wall studs. Use at least two screws.
- Re-check level after tightening — screws can pull the cabinet out of alignment.
Attach the Countertop & Backsplash
⚠️ The countertop and backsplash are NOT pre-attached to the cabinet. You must secure them yourself using silicone adhesive.
- Dry-fit the countertop on the cabinet first. Ensure it's centred and flush against the back wall.
- Apply a generous bead of clear 100% silicone adhesive along the top edges of the cabinet frame.
- Carefully lower the countertop onto the cabinet. Press down firmly and evenly.
- Apply silicone to the back of the backsplash and press it firmly against the wall behind the countertop.
- Run a thin bead of silicone along the joint between the countertop and backsplash for a watertight seal.
- Allow 24 hours for the silicone to fully cure before using the vanity.
Install the Faucet & Drain
- Install the faucet through the pre-drilled hole in the countertop. Follow the faucet manufacturer's instructions.
- Install the drain assembly into the undermount sink. Use plumber's putty or silicone around the drain flange.
- Connect the P-trap from the drain tailpiece to the wall drain stub-out.
- Connect supply lines from the faucet to the shut-off valves. Hand-tighten, then a quarter-turn with a wrench.
- Wrap all threaded connections with Teflon tape (2–3 wraps clockwise).
Test & Finish
- Slowly turn on the shut-off valves and check every connection for leaks.
- Run the faucet and check the drain for leaks underneath. Place a towel under the P-trap to spot drips.
- Caulk along the back and sides where the vanity meets the wall using colour-matched or clear silicone.
- Mount the mirror above the vanity at a comfortable height (typically 5–10" above the backsplash).
- Trim any visible shims flush with a utility knife.
Tips for a Professional Finish
Use painter's tape for clean caulk lines
Apply tape along both edges of any caulk joint before applying silicone. Remove tape immediately after smoothing the caulk bead.
Level is everything
Even 1/8" off-level is visible to the naked eye. Take your time with shimming — it's the foundation of the entire install.
Don't over-tighten plumbing connections
Plastic fittings (drain, P-trap) crack easily. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually enough. Over-tightening causes more leaks than under-tightening.
Let silicone cure fully
24 hours before using the vanity. Don't run water, move anything, or put weight on the countertop while the silicone sets.
Check for leaks twice
Test immediately and then again 24 hours later. Slow leaks often don't appear right away.
Not Comfortable Installing Yourself?
We recommend hiring a licensed plumber for the water connections if you're not experienced with plumbing. A typical vanity installation costs $200–$400 with a professional in the GTA.
We don't offer installation services, but any licensed plumber or bathroom contractor can install our vanities.